Basic start-up Powder Coating Instructions

Pretreatment:

1) Sandblast parts with fine or medium grade abrasive material.

a) You do not have to blast if parts are raw material or have been previously powder coated.

b) Heavy blasting abrasives leave a poor profile on the metal for painting and can actually cause painting defects such as pinholes.

c) For best results in final finish lightly sand parts to knock down profile from sandblasting.

2) Wash raw parts with solvent based material such as lacquer thinner, M.E.K. or equivalent.

Powder Painting:

1) Make sure gun is properly color changed to color for coating. With the Chicago Electric Gun make sure you remove plastic screw at bottom of shaft of gun and blow throughly as the screw sometimes holds powder and can cause cross powder contamination.

2) Make sure gun has proper air pressure (refer to your gun manual). We highly recommend putting an air regulator on gun itself and do not rely on compressor to regulate because the actual pressure that builds in air hose is more than gun requires and can cause bursting of powder at the end of the gun.

3) Make sure part is properly grounded by gun clamp or through other grounding source.

4) We suggest preheating parts at 375-400 Degrees for 10 minutes to help outgas parts and kill any material such as oil that could have been missed when cleaning parts.

5) Coat parts 3 to 5 minutes after preheating as this helps in getting into areas powder has a hard time reaching (cracks and creases) and also uses less powder.

Curing:

1) Single coats, secondary (final coat), third (final coats):

a) Light parts (pulleys, brackets and other small items): 400 degrees for 25 minutes.

b) Heavy Parts (wheels, intake manifolds, etc.): 450 degrees for 25 minutes.

2) Base coats and secondary mid-coats, such as chrome base for translucent color and/or with clear, white base for red flourescent, for example:

a) Partial cure for 10 to 15 minutes at 375 to 400 degrees. Remember- this is for all base and/or mid-coats that are going to have a final coat such as clear on top, with exception of chrome's additional curing schedule.

b) Chrome as a base coat under clear or translucents must be fully cured at 375 to 400 degrees for 25 minutes to get full luster of the chrome.


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